Attending a Sumo Match in Japan

Intro

When these Japanese giants collide, the world shakes. No, we’re not talking about the latest Godzilla movie, but another larger than life icon of Japan - the sumo. There’s nothing quite like sumo wrestling and it can make for a unique and unforgettable experience during your stay in Japan. For a country known for its etiquette, refinement, and politeness, a national sport that’s so big, bold, and well, sumo-sized, is something of a surprise. Yet, as a sport stepped in history and tradition, it’s also very much in keeping with Japanese culture and history. Attending a sumo match while staying in Japan is just as essential as trying Japanese food, visiting temples and shrines, experiencing a traditional festival, or getting a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. In other words, unmissable! If you’re hoping to watch a sumo match during your time in Japan then we’re here to help at JapanDen, with our introductory guide.  

The History of Sumo

As you might expect, Japanese Sumo wrestling has a proud and ancient history as the country’s national sport. Carvings of sumo figures have been found that date back as far as the 3rd Century, making the sport well over a thousand years old. Between the 3rd and 7th Centuries, it is believed that sumo contests were enacted as a Shinto ritual to pray and say thank you to the gods for a good rice harvest. This was the origin of sumo as detailed in the Kojiki and Nihonshoki - two of the most ancient Japanese history books. By the Nara (710-794) and Heian (794-1192) periods, sumo had become a more elaborate event which was performed at the imperial court for the Emperor. Sumo were also employed by samurai as training partners to help warlords and warriors to increase their physical strength. It wasn’t until the Edo period (1603-1867) that sumo truly became the sport that we recognise today. During this period, a set of rules were created, including 48 legal moves, the elevated circular ring, and stables to train the wrestlers. Many of the ritualistic Shinto practices from the origin of sumo were retained in the updated rules and customs, and carry on to this day, making the sport a living embodiment of Japanese tradition, as well as an incredible spectacle. Watching a live sumo match while in Japan is an experience you’ll never forget. 

Sumo Customs and Rules

While the customs and traditions date back a thousand years, the basic rules of sumo are relatively simple. It is full-contact wrestling, and a display of brute force, strength, and considerable skill, in which one rikishi or sekitori (two of the names for sumo wrestlers by rank) attempts to force the other outside of the ring, which is known as the dohyo, or to touch the ground with anything other than the bottom of their feet. As we mentioned, there are 48 permitted moves that sumo wrestlers can use against their opponent. If they use an illegal move, known as kinjite, they forfeit the match. The dohyo in which the two sumo collide is an elevated earthen ring, made from clay, covered in sand, and enclosed by a circle of rope. It is said that rice is buried under the ring to reflect the ancient origins of sumo, while the wooden roof that hangs over the dohyo in the arena is the same style and construction as those of Shinto shrines.

The rituals continue inside the circle too, with elaborate ring-entering ceremonies. The entrance of a yokozuna grand champion for instance will feature a tachimochi, or sword bearer. When the two opponents enter the dohyo they look into each other’s eyes before turning to face their corners, which are always either south-west or south-east. Each wrestler then performs the shiko - one of the most famous and recognisable sumo rituals. This is basically the moment they squat, clap, and raise their right leg before bringing it down with a stamp. Once they have done this with their right foot they do the same with their left. After this, the wrestlers return to their respective corners where they are given water known as chikara-mizu, or ‘strength water’, to rinse their mouths out. This is connected to Shinto purification rituals. Next, the two wrestlers assume the sonkyo position in the centre of the ring. This is a wide-legged stance to indicate they are willing to fight fairly. At this point, any prize money being fought for is displayed on banners by the ring. Purification salt is then thrown by each wrestler over their shoulder as they take their place on the starting line, or shikiri-sen. The wrestlers then perform one final shiko and the gyoji (referee) tells them it is time to begin. They are now ready to fight. It’s worth noting that unlike boxing, there are no weight classes in sumo, so adding extra weight to your frame is a big part of a sumo’s training regime and diet, although strength and skill are just as important as size. 

• Life of a sumo

Sumo wrestlers (rikishi and sekitori) live in a special training stable called a heya. Their trainers, known as oyakata, are always former sumo, and they are very strict and regimented. A rikishi’s life is overseen by their oyakata, and everything from their training to their meals to their clothing is dictated by centuries of tradition. In return for their discipline and commitment, sumo wrestlers are national celebrities in Japan, earn a high wage, and often have fan clubs that follow them even after retirement. 

• Eat like a sumo

Food is a big part of a sumo’s life and their favourite meal is reportedly chanko nabe - a substantial hotpot which can feature meat, seafood, vegetables and broth. Perfect for putting on that extra muscle needed to be a yokozuna! Japan is a paradise for food lovers, with everything from Michelin-starred dining to street food available as well as homegrown classics like sushi and ramen.  

Watching a Sumo Match 

If you’re planning your perfect stay in Japan with JapanDen and want to fill your trip with unique, authentic, and extra special experiences then watching a sumo match is definitely recommended. The opportunity to see two titans collide in the ring is not to be missed. The pre-match rituals alone are an incredible traditional spectacle for fans, particularly international visitors, as well as the unique atmosphere in the arena. There really is no other sport quite like it. Matches are held in stadiums and take place all day from 8am to 6pm. The main matches, featuring the highest ranked sumo, take place in the afternoon. You can watch some of the lower ranked wrestlers in the morning, but the stadium doesn’t tend to fill up until later in the day. Just make sure you’re seated for the main events, as you won’t want to miss those - the atmosphere in the arena will also be at its peak then. Stadiums sell snacks and drinks and it’s also possible to pre-order special bento boxes to enjoy at the event. Bento are essentially Japanese lunch boxes (of exceptionally high-quality). Bonus tip: When attending a match, you can rent English audio commentary head-sets if you’d like a play-by-play account of the action. And be sure to duck if a lower ranked wrestler happens to defeat the yokozuna grand champion, as Japanese fans might throw their cushions to show their displeasure!  

National Sumo Tournaments 

While Tokyo has several of the major tournaments, other Japanese cities such as Osaka, Nagoya, and Fukuoka also host matches so it’s definitely possible to stay elsewhere in the country and still watch some sumo. Be sure to check our Hotels page for accommodation to choose from in those cities. In total, there are six official national sumo tournaments in Japan and each lasts 15 days. They are known as honbasho. Three of the national tournaments take place in Tokyo (in January, May, and September), with three more in Osaka (March), Nagoya (July), and Fukuoka (November). The sport is governed by the Japan Sumo Association and wrestlers are ranked in a hierarchy called banzuke. The premier league is makuuchi, and the grand champion is known as yokozuna. Sumo begin their career in the lowest rank, jonokuchi, and their performances in the national tournaments can send their ranking up or down. Attending one of the six grand sumo tournaments - honbasho - is an amazing way to experience this unique sport. The three honbasho in Tokyo are held at the world famous Ryogoku Kokugikan stadium which can seat up to 13,000 spectators. As a result of this, Tokyo has a long history of sumo culture and several related attractions you might enjoy. 

Sumo-sized attractions

The city of Tokyo has been closely associated with sumo since the Edo period. If you’re visiting the city and want to find out more about sumo history, tradition, and culture, there are some great places to visit and particular districts to seek out such as Ryogoku in East Tokyo, which is basically sumo central.

• Sumo Museum

Based within the Kokugikan Sumo Stadium, the Sumo Museum is the place to go to find out more about the history of this unique sport. With portraits of champion yokozuna from throughout the decades, photos of historic milestones, and a collection of memorabilia, including ceremonial aprons, there’s plenty to see. Only ticket holders can visit the museum during tournaments, although admission is otherwise free.

• Restaurants fit for a sumo

Ryogoku is packed with excellent restaurants for sumo and sumo fans. Many serve a sumo’s favourite meal, chanko nabe, and even feature a dohyo ring in the restaurant for guests to step inside and take photos before or after their meal. Perhaps if you eat enough chanko nabe you might have a chance of following in the footsteps of your sumo idols.

• Ekoin Temple

Sumo matches were held outdoors at Tokyo’s Ekoin Temple before 1909, when the first stadium was built. Today, the shrine can be visited for those wishing to honour former champions and trainers. You’ll find Ekoin Temple a short walk from Ryogoku station.

• Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine

Located south of Ryogoku, sumo tournaments were held at Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine for more than 100 years during the Edo period, making it a particularly historic location for fans of the sport. The shrine grounds feature monuments to former champions and a museum, which can only be accessed on special request.

Booking Tickets for Sumo

So how do you book tickets? If you want to attend a sumo match during your stay in Japan then it’s important to plan ahead. Tickets for the national sumo tournaments should be bought in advance from Japan Sumo Wrestling’s official website, or other accredited vendors, although a small number of balcony tickets are sold on the day. You may also be able to purchase tickets at convenience stores, although you may need a good understanding of the Japanese language to do this successfully. You can buy tickets for any one or more of the 15- day tournaments. Tickets often sell out, especially for weekend matches and on national holidays, so it pays to book in advance to avoid missing out. Tickets vary in price from ringside seats, which place you closest to the action, to traditional box seats with cushions, to balcony seating. Here is a quick description of each category of seating:

• Ringside

You’ll have a great view as you’re closest to the ring, but there is a risk of injury if a sumo wrestler is pushed out of the ring by his opponent and falls into the crowd. 

• Box seats

Japanese-style box seats have capacity for four people and feature cushions. Shoes are always removed. Box seats are sold as entire boxes even if there’s only two of you. 

• Balcony

Western-style balcony seating is further away from the action, but they’re also the cheapest priced ticket and a limited number of seats are kept free for on the day sales.  

Useful Links 

Now you know more about sumo, you can continue planning your perfect stay in Japan by choosing one of our recommended hotels and ryokans. We love Japan as much as you do and we’re excited to help you find your home away from home while visiting this unforgettable country. Alongside our carefully curated selection of accommodation, we hope to provide everything you need to plan your dream visit, from in-depth travel guides to 24/7 customer assistance, as well as our upcoming community forum. We can also point you in the right direction for the most cost-effective and enjoyable transport, portable Wifi devices, and partner services to ensure everything goes smoothly during your time in Japan:

• For the perfect place to stay while visiting Japan to watch sumo or enjoy other traditional events, visit our Hotels page and choose from more than 2,800 hotels and 1,800 traditional ryokans.

• Meanwhile, if you want to learn more about Japan’s regions and prefectures so you can decide the best place to visit, you should check out our Destinations page. 

• If you’re looking to explore Japan then the country’s famously efficient trains are the way to go. Japan’s railways are renowned as being the fastest, cleanest, and safest in the world. The country’s rail network is so vast and interconnected that it can help you reach almost any corner of Japan you’d like to visit. Furthermore, with a Japan Rail Pass you can enjoy unlimited travel on the majority of the country’s trains, including the famous Shinkansen ‘bullet trains’. The JR Pass is by far the most cost effective and flexible way to get around Japan. Find out more by visiting our partners at www.jrpass.com today.

• Want to use Google Translate to support your language skills? Or Google Maps for live train updates? What about posting photos to social media or keeping in touch with home? For all this and more, you’ll need a PocketWifi device like those from Ninja Wifi. With unlimited data, support for five devices simultaneously, the ability to share your Wifi with your travel companions, and more, renting a PocketWifi is highly recommended. Our Pocket WiFi guide has everything you need to know.

• If you’re looking for information about Japan and want to speak with expert travellers who have been there and done that, then you should join our Community. This welcoming and friendly forum is the place to go to share stories, knowledge, and experiences about Japan, ask questions, make new connections, and find travel inspiration.